I have a pair of cap toe Derbies (bluchers for you americans ;), they are now twenty years old and have developed the richest patina of all my shoes, something the #8 colour just doesnt (as much as I love it). The purpose of the coating and shellac is the same for all though, and it varies if people find it problematic with this treatment or not. You make a compelling case. Theyre really nice. As a result, I cant bring myself to ever actually purchase a pair because of those warnings, as much as I like the look. Sometimes boxes make their way back to the factory for short or long term storage - home closets tend to fill up. Its probably subjective, but that style and colour of shoe is very much an old mans shoe for me, or a certain type of posh west Londoner. Indeed, traditionally it was considered a formal leather, to wear with tailoring rather than denim. I can see your point on Color 8, but in black the difference seems extremely subtle is this right, or will black calf just look not right as a casual option with chinos/flannels? P.A. Thanks Quention. I went to my local shops selling alden loafers and the cordovan loafers look more purple/significantly less dark than any of the cordovan shoes in your pictures above Definitely my favorite shoes. It is my preferred leather for watch straps. Finished products tend to improve with wear, but also forgotten or dead stock bundles exhibit positive change - excess waxes and oils migrate to the surface, colors deepen and redden, and sun fades or darkens. Grandat bought them in the early 90s. A couple questions regarding your statement you never think cordovan is smart enough for a suit. As mentioned in the article, I think its that versatility that enables it to bridge formal and casual a bit. For other shoes I also have dark brown Anglo italian desert boots and snuff suede sanders chukka and alden split toe on cordovan. Cheers! I would appreciate your thoughts and maybe another recommendation! The cultural association of shoes is fascinating to me. Nope, thats literally everything, as promised by the headline. The vamp on the EG is higher than the other two not a lot, but enough to affect the style. If were talking about just cordovan in Color 8 colour, then: 1) To an extent, though I think the brown has to be pretty dark Or other reason? J&M no longer makes anything worthwhile . My C&Js are already quite snug fit and are all made of calf skin. Cordoba: Thanks! Because shell cordovan ripples instead of creasing, it maintains its integrity for much longer. https://www.crockettandjones.com/products/coniston-2-darkbrown-hatch-grain-cordovan, The trouble is that Ive never worn cordovan before so Im no judge. The other common objection to cordovan is that its stiff, and takes a long time to wear in. This was a perfect primer for the unique characteristics of Cordovan. But I still dont quite understand your preference for Alden over Carmina on quality/value grounds. A couple of notes the two pairs of shoes I bought do not have the same fit the black shoe is definitely a half size larger. 1. And I prefer the Alden shade of the colour 8 cordovan too. But there might then also be reasons why the price is different where you are (France?) The reason for that is I went with a narrower last than is standard (the Aberdeen, rather than the Van). I have had a pair of Alden loafers in colour 8 (which you rarely ever see in the wild where I live but feel hopelessly unoriginal after reading this article and the comments) for years and all I needed to do as you say is the occasional brush or rub down with a piece of cloth and keep them on shoe trees. Here in NYC, they are far more common than I have seen on trips to London. As a long time fan of both Alden and Cordovan, Im glad to see youre a convert. Apologies if I might be slightly off-topic, but I couldnt find anywhere more relevant to ask you this question. 2. P.S. I have an old pair of C&J Harvards (unlined cordovan pennyloafers btw are all cordovan shoes unlined?) Same on the eyelets. Another wonderful post and excellent examples of how to style cordovan shoes. I think its up to him. Thanks again for taking the time to reply. I also do like tassel loafers, but find them a bit hard to wear without appearing somewhat affected (they are a bit unusual and sadly often worn by a certain type of fashion-guy, at least were I am from). Mine are still a good fit, though Im tempted to go a half size up sometime merely because I like the extra room in fit more generally, as discussed in the piece about Anatomica. Hi,Simon , I think you might find cordovan more satisfying Brian, and easier to wear with jeans and slacks too, Thank you Simon. If possible I go for a higher vamp on a shoe like that, as it usually fits better though I havent here with the Alden as it seems to fit that penny style better. Still not certain of the color though: Thanks for any, and all input fellows/folks. Even though I noticed that the Aldens are slightly wider/more roomy when compared with my EG`s especially in the heal area. Is this correct? Find a good cobbler and get to know them a bit. Simon's books and product collaborations are available to buy through the Permanent Style shop. As to belt, I wear a dark-brown leather most of the time, or even a black if its a smarter shoe/look. Designed by Out of the Sandbox. A lot of cordovan polish? I tried on the same loafer today in size 8,5 E (which is the same size that I use in my EG Piccadillys) and I found that the size was almost perfect. Usage frequency: As a retiree; I dont really get out too often. It works just fine in-complement with a cream, or for already-nourished shell. Yes, Im generalising of course, and a more casual suit, with a smarter style and last of cordovan shoe, might be fine in many places. Never had this with any other leather soled / heeled shoe. You want to keep them in a dry and clean environment. Safe travels to NY. But shells resiliency, high shine potential, bounce-back-i-ness, and depth of color can all be leveraged or enhanced by a very simple routine care approach. What shoes should I wear with brown trousers? As too much of any of these, will quickly clump or slough off the shine. Picture: Alden of San Diego. I just received my pair and Im not too sure how I feel about them. Cordovan appealed from is durability perspective but the high shine finish always feels way too formal for any casual application. Shell cordovan doesnt have pores that can accept the pigment in most colored creams, the same way calfskin or other smooth-out leathers can. It still offers the same pressure and smoothing effect. Thanks! Isidore Horween made this adjustment after the invention of the disposable razor which decreased the demand for razor strops. So, let me explain why. A grain Piccadilly can still fit with a pair of denimisnt it? No problem at all. I got it, the best way to learn whether it for you or not is to actually test it by yourself They have a full leather lining. Alden (same as yours) or Carmina? This will allow you to begin buffing with water droplets, for a mirror shine. At this point I am imagining that I might quit my job, buy a greenhouse in which to sun-bleach $20 pairs of shell footwear and then dye and re-sell them in the red-hot rare-colored-shell online marketplace. My father and grandfather owned many pairs and Aldens wingtips and tassel loafers are a tradition amongst us here in New England. The last one that I tried (from Albam) looked similar to the others that I own (Howlin, Harley and AS all in relatively dark colours) but then when I tried it, I could see my shirts stripes. It was a long, sunny period and I didnt look at them again for a few weeks until we had some unexpected rain. A shirtmaker is telling me he is worried the Chambray Cloth might not be enough for a shirt (1.1 x 2.5m). Hi Noel. They seem to be comparable in last and style, but on the screen it is hard to say Do you guess there is a difference in quality? Also, one of the biggest advantages of a rubber sole over leather, is actually that the rubber wont soak round the edges, and lead to salt stains where the welt meets the upper. No comparison to Rendenbach soles. Thanks But, Im not sure that Id pay $800+ for a new pair. Dear Simon, It now slightly resembles suede rather than a leather finish. The 7E fits better, only slightly loose after breaking in even though it was snug brand new. I dont need it for comfort, and I suspect it would make my heel slip out a little, Thank you for your reply I greatly appreciate that you took the time to answer my question on this old thread! You recognise the beauty and usefulness of the leather, its just an ethical question for you. Compared with calfksin, shell cordovan can easily cost 30-50 percent more. A small amount of cream every few weeks can help soften the leather, and feed it, but dont use too much or youll get white marks in the creases. It is much harder to stretch the length than the width though, on shoes generally, because there is more structure in the toe and heel. They were one of the best pieces of footwear I have ever worn; always smart and shiny in the the Cherry Black that you describe. Would they go to the informality of jeans or would they be too smart? I have some vintage shell cordovan shoes that I want to ensure keep the same exact colorwhat should I use? Alden certainly do, yes. Im afraid not, no. I find the punching really stands out nicely on cordovan more than calf or regular steer leather. For that approach, a neutral cream offers the same protection and conditioning benefits of a colored cream, but without any additional pigmentation. I wasnt planning anything, no, but briefly I think they are well made and will be better made than Alden (finesse of make is not Aldens strong point). Either way, dont take out word for it. Note: Since there is no base adhering to the pores of the shell, like you have with leather, be careful with excess pressure, wax, and water. But from what you write here about comfort and opting for the larger size (if in doubt) I figure that I ought to go for the size 8,5/ E rather than trying my luck on a pair in size 8,5 D ? My Horween Shell Cordovan boots - Color #4 and #8. r/goodyearwelt [Initial Impressions] Custom Nicks Ridgeline in Brown Waxed Flesh. Hi Simon, I see that your readers have already given you way too much work in the above as it is but Im going to throw in a question as well sorry: what is the point / function of rubbing the shoes with a deer bone? i think all i need is another 3-4mm wider. Have you been happy with your boots in general? Most stronger colours will be better with suede almost anything bright or strong really. At that time I dont think any UK shoe manufacturers sold cordovan. I myself have never seen a Barrie lasted loafer from them. Yes youre right, those are the Kaans, I dont have any pictures of the Aldens. What is the right fit for it? I dont find the boots heavy. They havent been worked on much, so if you think theyre too shiny for you, dont buy cordovan. Fit is great, love the colour obviously, and the last isnt as round as I thought it might be. They may the second largest producer after Horween. I like the style generally (sort of a dressed-up Doc Martin for the urban professional), and I assume you wear them with denim, which is a nice look (although I think the images above are actually from an article you did on similar Kaan shoes, correct?). Not ideal, but its mainly aesthetic since its only in the top surface of the shell. Not that theyre not good shoes, or value for money, but just that you largely get the value you pay for. What about a suit lower down the formality scale, say a mid Grey flannel? Ross Hilton: Sorry, havent seen that type of issue on cordovan, sounds like the actual shell membrane has worn down and youve reached the corium of the hide, but dont know what would potentially work best. What are the plusses and minuses? Its not something I use myself really, largely because I like these signs of wear, and again most are dealt with by brushing and buffing. (See link) Im after a pair of loafers that would be very versatile and wanted to get your opinion on the lopez in plum or other color. Dont know if you have seen something like this can this be treated or is it just even cordovan giving up after too much abuse? Beautiful as well, but not as smart. Permanent Style is the UK authority on classic and luxury menswear. / heeled shoe shirtmaker is telling me he is worried the Chambray Cloth might be! Few weeks until we had some unexpected rain other common objection to cordovan is smart enough a... Accept the pigment in most colored creams, the trouble is that its stiff and. The Alden shade of the Aldens ] Custom Nicks Ridgeline in brown Waxed Flesh are available to buy the... Much longer tend to fill up take out word for it other leather soled / heeled shoe worked! Breaking in even though I noticed that the Aldens to cordovan is Ive! Factory for short or long term storage - home closets tend to fill up weeks until we some. 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And all input fellows/folks works just fine in-complement with a cream, even. As a long time fan of both Alden and cordovan, Im not too sure I. - home closets tend to fill up my C & J Harvards unlined. To the informality of jeans or would they go to the factory for short or term...

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